Length shall not exceed 7 inches. Weight shall not exceed 5 ounces. Axles, wheels, and body shall be from the materials provided in the kit. Additional wheels can be purchased separately. Wheel bearings, washers, and bushings are prohibited. No lubricating oil may be used. Axles may be lubricated with powdered graphite or silicone. The car shall not ride on any kind of spring. The car must be free-wheeling, with no starting devices. No loose materials of any kind are allowed in the car.
Rules for Building your Pinewood Derby Car. Make safety your top priority. This method uses a "winner's bracket" system that begins with every car filling one spot. At the end of each heat, the winning car advances to the next level of the winner's bracket while the other cars are entered in the loser's bracket.
Those cars then race against one another, with the winners of each heat advancing. The final car of each of the two brackets competes with the other for first place. Advantages: The system is straightforward and moves quickly. Each car has at least two chances to advance. Disadvantages: Certain track lanes might be faster than others. The rules state a maximum 7-inch length. Selecting the wheelbase is very rules-sensitive.
Are you forced to use the built-in slots? That's too bad. However, you can at least make the direction work in your favor. The kit slots aren't the same distance from the end of the car, and by making the rear end of the car the one with the slot closer to the end of the block, you keep the wheels on the slope just a fraction of a second longer and gain just a smidgen more speed.
Opinions vary, but most experts suggest adding as much weight to the back of your car as you can without popping a wheelie. About one inch in front of the rear axle is usually a good spot. Learn more about where to add weight on a Pinewood Derby car. The weights come in various shapes, sizes and materials. Tungsten cubes, strips or putty are popular because tungsten is denser than many other metals. For a cheaper option, you can also use lead-free fishing weights, ball bearings or coins.
Bending your Pinewood Derby axles will make the wheels ride up against the nailhead, which creates less friction than if the wheel is bouncing around and rubbing against the wooden Pinewood Derby car body. It also makes alignment easier. An axle bending tool is the simplest way to do this, and these tools can be purchased at the Scout Shop and many craft stores.
But you can also make a slight bend in the the axle using a clamp and a pair of pliers. You can use a file or fine-grit sandpaper to remove the burrs and polish the axle. One easy way to do this is to clamp the axles back in the drill and let the drill spin the axle while you polish it. Any dry graphite will work well, and you can purchase it at the Scout Shop, craft stores or hardware stores.
Other options for dry lubricants include molybdenum moly or tungsten disulfide WS2 powder. These lubricants are available on their own or mixed with graphite. They generally cost more, but some people think they are more effective than graphite. Every pack sets their own rules and guidelines for their Pinewood Derby race. There are no official nationwide rules. Check with your local pack, district or council to find the rules in your area. You can also click here for some common Pinewood rules and guidelines.
The Pinewood Derby is frequently held in January or February, but there is no official date. Local Cub Scout packs can schedule their race for any time throughout the year. Many packs distribute Pinewood Derby kits in December so that Cub Scouts can work on their cars over the holiday break. Enamel paint will give your Pinewood Derby car the glossiest finish , but any paint works great for your Pinewood Derby car.
You can even use markers or stickers. The point is to be creative and have fun. Many people find it best to finish decorating their car before they install the axles and wheels.
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